We arrived in Cochin on Tuesday by bus from Munnar. As the bus was driving through Ernakulam, the busier, more crowded part of the city, we remembered what we didn't like about big cities in India. Plus, it was about 35 degrees without the humidity. After finding (more like being found by) and negotiating a rickshaw (he didn't at all like that I was the one negotiating with him), we were driven to our hotel in Fort Cochin which we read was quieter and more laid-back. Instead of being dropped off at our hotel though, he dropped us off at a church. The driver reassured us that the hotel was just around the corner, but when we turned the corner, there was nothing. By the time we figured out that he had screwed us, he was gone. So we walked in silence to the hotel... if you have nothing nice to say don't say it at all, right?

After our little introductory incident, things started looking up for us. The hotel we're staying at is nice and clean, Fort Cochin is historical and beautiful and everything is in walking distance. Yesterday we spent the day exploring the city on foot. We visited the Indo-Portugese museum, the oldest church built by Europeans in India, the oldest synagogue in India, Jew Town, the Chinese fishing nets, the "beach", the former Dutch Palace and the Dutch and Jewish cemeteries. Of course these places are all touristy so we were accosted many times by shop keepers, street vendors and the fish mongers at the Chinese fishing nets. We had read in the Lonely Planet that you can get fresh seafood and fish from these fish mongers behind the Chinese nets so we ventured back around dinner time to see what we could get. The way it works is that you walk along the "wharf" (really a sidewalk along the waterfront area) and all the sellers shout out to you to come to their stalls. There are men all around you shouting that they have "special price" and the freshest catch. Anil and I split up to do our negotiating... he got his quotes and I got mine and then and Anil pitted two sellers against each other to get the better price. Once you buy the seafood/fish from the fish mongers more guys come up to you and offer to cook your catch. We negotiated that price too and then were taken back about 400m from the nets to these shack-type restaurants where they prepare the seafood for you. We had a scampi the size of my head, tiger shrimp the size of my hand and crab. We also ordered a rice dish and an Israeli salad that were delicious. Our server, Anu, was an 18-year-old guy that was very friendly and funny and asked us many questions about us. What a great meal!

We're a little sad that today's our last day here, but it's going to be a good last day. We're scheduled to get authentic aryuvedic massages this afternoon and then we're going to see a Kathakali performance this evening. Our cross-country train to Chennai leaves tonight just after midnight. We're not going to spend any time in Chennai, we're just passing through on our way to Pondicherry on the East coast.